The gift that Gwaai River Hotel gave to me
Gwaai River Hotel as it was in its glory days
Gwaai River Hotel today, after ten years of chaotic 'land reform'
A friend today gave me images of the Gwaai River Hotel taken in recent years, and it hurled me back to my childhood. The hotel is a fixture of my very early youth, inextricably locked into my earliest memories of Zimbabwe. A year or so ago I was with my father when we drove past the turning off to the hotel, and I asked him to take me back so I could see it again: “There’s nothing there anymore; I don’t think you should see it”. My father, who once introduced me to a friend of his as his ‘bush baby’, knows how much I loved the place.
I understood from the pictures I saw today why he didn’t want me to see it. It is gone. Totally destroyed, and all this senseless destruction has taken place in the last ten years in the wake of Zanu PF’s chaotic land reform programme. My memories, however, are not destroyed.
Then...
... and now.
The hotel was a hub of the local community, attracting miners, safari operators, hunters, conservationists, farmers and passing tourists. My memories are those of a child: of the gloriously blue swimming pool, with a paddling pool as warm as wee at one end. A trampoline that was less boing-boing-boing and more ker-booyooing – ker-boyooing – ker-boyooing (if most trampolines aspired to be being a tightly-pulled drum, this one longed for retirement days as a deep feather-bed). It was wonderful though – especially when an adult hopped on: I remember my father bouncing me while I sat at his feet, so high that he literally sent me flying off the trampoline, fortunately caught by someone standing near-by.
I remember the putt-putt course, crafted out of concrete in impossible humps and tunnels. And the tennis-courts near the trampoline, children shrieking and bouncing while adults – all wearing crisp whites – played tennis. I remember taking a turn at pulling the dining room’s punkah wallah – I was hopelessly bad at it. And in later years when I was bit older, the horses: two in particular, a smallish brown horse and a larger grey that had an attitude and was my nemisis, both very efficient at flicking their ears at Gwaai flies.
People who were ‘grown-ups’ at the time will now fondly talk about the money collection – currencies from everywhere in the world – framed in the bar. And the huge parties, especially at New Year. My memories of those evenings are of hurtling around the gardens at night, in my pyjamas when I should have been in bed, with a whole group of other kids while our parents partied.
In many respects these memories are predictable, but there are always three thoughts that I have which precede these.
The first is of the short drive towards the hotel, the car hot and stuffy from a long journey turning onto a road that dipped down to a narrow concrete bridge with a stomach-pulling lurch as the car rose on the other side and then cocked to the right – the hotel facing us just before we turned.
My second memory (which surprises me given I was so young) is of the birdlife: walking through the narrow gate in the wall into a sanctuary of shady trees around the front of the hotel, and into a prism of dappled light and bird-song.
My third memory is of the proprietors, Harold and Sylvia Broomberg, who ran the hotel for decades, including the horror times of the war and the Gukuruhundi. It is only after my adult mind has arrived and been welcomed by them that I turn to the ‘sweetie’ memories of childish fun listed above.
As I’ve grown up I’ve developed a deep reluctance to look back to those times. For a start, much of the content on the web where people celebrate ‘looking back’ is dominated by ex-Rhodesian die-hards, their memories offered to the world in the context of ‘…see… things were better then than they are now‘. This mind-set denies the reality of the experiences of the majority at the time, and in sharing my memories, I in no way want anyone to think I endorse the historical and social context they exist within. However, nor do I want to qualify the sheer joy and innocence of childhood memories with political caveats.
I know full well that had I experienced those days from the perspective of the person I have grown up to become today, I would look at pre-Independence experiences with a very different set of eyes. As a child though, I was unaware of the context I grew up in: I didn’t know until I was much older, for example, that behind his back some people referred to my father as a ‘communist’, because his views of the current context angered many around him (the word used less to accurately describe his political views, and hurled more as an expletive at a man who believed the Smith government trying to maintain the status-quo was profoundly wrong).
I think one of the most overwhelming reasons to not want to look back though is the nostalgic pain it invokes. I looked at the photos my friend gave me with deep sadness, and then found myself gripped by a desire to see pictures of what it looked like when I was child. In my search to do so I found this Facebook group, and it was when I saw pictures of Harold and Sylvia that I started crying as I recognised the deeply familiar faces of two people that I have such fond memories of.
Harold and Sylvia Broomberg
Only then did it dawn on me that the beauty and warmth of the place and my most treasured memories had everything to do with these two people.
I remember both of them exuding an incredible gentleness, softly spoken and extremely kind. They knew me by name even though I must have been one of hundreds of children passing through their hotel, whining before we reached the front door that I didn’t want to use the loo first, I wanted to go straight to the trampoline! I know that my parents were probably aware that they were arriving at an establishment owned and run as a formal business by a couple, but as a child I had no appreciation of formalities: for me, visiting the Gwaai River Hotel was like arriving at a relative’s home and settling in as quickly as possible, and moaning like hell when I had to leave. Harold and Sylvia made it feel that way.
In the discussion section of the Facebook group, Harold and Sylvia’s daughter writes in 2008:
Harold has a prayer that has been in his heart almost all his life. It goes like this:
All through this day
let me touch as many
lives as possible,
and every life I touch
do You, dear Lord, quicken,
whether through the words I say,
the things I do
or the life I live.
So be it.
Harold carried this prayer in his heart, but he showed it in his actions and speech too.
When I first saw the photos my friend gave me today, I felt deeply depressed and I said “I’m never going to go back there. My dad was right, I’ll bawl”.
Her response was one word: “Rebuild”.
There is something very forward-thinking and positive about that: just because it’s over doesn’t mean it’s OVER. And as I realised towards the end of my self-indulgent trip down memory-lane, the real gift wasn’t the stuff – the fan, the trampoline, the putt-putt course etc. What made it so special to so many – even if they don’t properly realise it yet – was that it was run with love and deep affection for the people who visited the place. Harold’s prayer says it all: if only his prayer was the philosophy in the hearts of everyone and all the political parties involved our country, we would be rich and happy beyond our wildest dreams.
Harold died last year, peacefully in his sleep. I can only imagine how Sylvia and their family may feel when they see these images: but I hope they take away from this a perception that the most important part of Gwaai River Hotel, the heart and soul of the place, can never be destroyed by the hate and ugly destructiveness of Mugabe and his thugs. And that’s the postive attitude and warm spirit embodied by Harold and his wife:Â a special thing to keep in mind and hand down to generations to come as we all move forwards to rebuild, repair and nurture our beloved country.
If we treasure this spirit instead, and stop weeping about what once was, then what a gift they’ve given us.
March 12th, 2010 21:58
Thank you for this moving testimony and encouragement.
March 13th, 2010 07:15
yr final comment is so true ,but we still have the anger for the senseless destruction in the name of racial equality
March 13th, 2010 11:25
@Dan – @Dan – Thank you for the memories of Gwaai River.
On one call up we were based at the Falls and our duty was to drive down to Inyati daily to check the Reserve Airport for morning and afternoon arrivals. This necessitated travel on the back roads for a spell game viewing in the early morning, the airport, Inyati, the afternoon airport sortie and back to the Falls for evening and sleep. Idyllic trips which we reckoned tourists would pay a fortune for.
Invariably there was a stop off at the Hotel for one beer which we paid for but, although offering, we never paid for the meal.
There were about eight in our party, all races, and I would like the Broomberg family to know that their kindness is remembered after more than 40 years.
March 13th, 2010 12:57
you write (of some Rhodesians) : “their memories offered…things were better then than they are now. This mind-set denies the reality of the experiences of the majority at the time….”
do you imply that things “for the majority at the time” were not better “then”? face facts.
March 13th, 2010 13:04
On behalf of the Broomberg family, we are so touched by this. Thank you. Sylvia is doing well….still welcoming everyone into her home here in Johannesburg. Louise visited the Gwaai last year and was going to post some pics on Facebook – “Memories of the Gwaai Valley” but hasn’t done so as yet. We so agree with your message – rebuild. When my folks came to JHB everyone wondered how my Dad would cope. In his usual style, he made the kitchen and the computer his domain – taught himself both – and continued entertaining in Gwaai style. We are truly blessed to have grown up at the Gwaai with our special parents and all the wonderful friends who helped make the Gwaai what it was. Thanks.
March 13th, 2010 13:14
Oh my gosh, Hope. I’m totally finished, reading that. Full of tears. But your friend is so right – we must remember, and we must rebuild, in whatever way we can.
Or as my favourite Shakespeare quote has it, “Serve God, love me, and mend”. Because it isn’t over and it never will be.
Thank you for posting this, I’m going to share it with friends and family who have happy memories of their own yet choose to meander around in pointless one-eyed nostalgia, remembering only one side of the story.
March 13th, 2010 13:24
Thank you for posting this. I grew up at Gwaai as well and am so sad to hear about Harold’s death – the worlds most gentle man.
Rina, if you reas this please say hello to Syl for me.
My auntie, Bev MacIntosh and my Great Auntie Aili, live at the Gwaai for years and I spent many happy holidays there – exactly as you describe it. (Do you remember being paid to collect jars of fire-flies for the dining tables in fire-fly season? One of my best memories!)
Sadly my darling Bev died in 2008, that was the final page in my Gwaai story.
If anyone does rebuilt – please post it. What a wonderful tribute that will be.
March 13th, 2010 14:51
Your testimony is very touching and provokes high emotions. Anyway we can not continue to weep.I only wish the things that happened during our colonialism period would have one to visit lobby for campaign for or ask for restitution.
What i mean is for so many years or history have not been well documented because it is regarded as not important.
Also, sorry to say this, both the former white commercial farmers, and the government of Zimbabwe were cheated by Britain and now every one shifts the belief that one man is to blame.
In its quest to solve the issue, Britain took all its old white farmers to the old age homes who could not denounce their British citizenship after the Zim Govt banned dual citizenship. The same happened soon after world war 2 she took orphans and placed the to Australia.
It required and until now , Zimbabweans whether Black or white to come together reunite map a way forward.
Its a pity, that one man had decided to accept the blame. I also used to hate him until i had to ask myself why would one be so stubborn mischievous and so defiant yet so confident tactful and courageous
March 13th, 2010 15:10
@Mandy Steele – Mandy I remeber you and my Mom would love to hear from you. So great to make contact. Please email her lbroomberg@gmail.com
March 13th, 2010 16:14
Such a very special place.
My memories of it will never lost.
Fondest regards to Sylvia, who hopefully will remember me.
I remember you and Harold so well.
Twig Wood.
March 13th, 2010 16:14
Also cried when reading this. So wonderful to think back to those times at The Gwaai. My fondest memories were the trampoline, the pottery, the cream soda drink that gave us all green or red rings round our lips – good times!
So sad to see the current day pictures, but so amazing to see the old ones too, and remember the wonderful Gwaai as it was, and as it remains in our memories.
You are so right – what a gift Harold and Sylvia gave us!
March 14th, 2010 17:19
@ Thornton
Has the ill-fated land grab improved the lot or the experiences of the majority????
March 14th, 2010 18:54
Thanks for this – I was stationed (BSAP) in Wankie for the 2nd half of 1978 with the Gwaai River Hotel being one of the Convoy stops. Was fortunate to visit again with my brother, Fen, in 1996 – he knew the owners at the time. It was great going back – such a pity that it could not last. Your descriptions brought back a flood of detailed memories that nobody can take away. Rebuild – would love to be involved once there’s stability in Zim.
March 15th, 2010 00:55
Boy, talk about old memories…..!! My parents, Geoff “Guti” King and Esme managed the old Gwaai River Hotel for about a year from early 1953 before moving on to manage the Halway House Hotel about 30 miles south of Gwaai River Hotel. They stayed there for about a year before moving down to manage the Lupane Hotel. We met both Harold and Sylvia Broomberg when my Dad made visits to Gwaai River Hotel. My father really enjoyed the hotel business and loved meeting all his new and old friends who passed through. I remember as a young boy, my brother Adrian and I had to be boarders at Hillside Junior School in Bulawayo because they had no schools nearby. We so looked forward to the school holidays so we could get out in the bush.Our city friends enjoyed getting to come and stay with us at the hotel at every opportunity.
Thank you to all for sharing this short but memorable part of my life. Wonderful people, great country back then and a lifetime of memories. We now live in San Diego, California, USA. Our hearts are still in Africa!
March 15th, 2010 05:26
@nelson – Why is it that it is always taken for granted that all white commercial farmers are British? It does my head in. My father-in-law was born in South Africa in 1900. My mother in law was born in Shurugwe in 1913. My husband was born in Kadoma in 1936. My sons were born in Kadoma in 1970. Not one of them considers themselves British. We are all still in Zimbabwe albeit landless despite the fact that the farm was in the family from 1946.
There is only one person to blame for the plight of the majority of Zimbabweans. That is the president of Zimbabwe who is not courageous, nor is he tactful. He is devious and mean and spares not one thought for the people of Zimbabwe. Wake up Nelson.
March 16th, 2010 14:52
@Doris – I concur, Doris. My family spanned only three generations in Zim (Rhod), my grandad being a 1893 pioneer (God forbid!!!), my dad born in Byo in 1916 and myself born in Gwelo in 1966. My Dad in his 81 years NEVER set foot off African soil, and neither yet have I. Not even for a holiday!
So I ask – who is more African – Mugabe or me?
March 17th, 2010 03:39
It’s sad to see the Gwaai has been ruined, but that’s no surprise given the state of the rest of the country. The sad part about it is that the people responsible for ruining this and every other great spot in Zimbabwe, have usually done it out of malice towards others. What they fail to realise is that the past and memories cannot be taken away. Instead, it becomes future generations who are the losers, forever deprived of the opportunity to experience the same wonderful places we used to know (and which, for the past 30 years, everyone has been able to share equally).
The sooner Mugabe’s supporters stop looking for scapegoats and realise that their current poverty and despair is the result of (a) their own poor leadership, and (b) a predisposition to jealousy and wanting to take away from others rather that to build their own futures, the sooner their children will be able to have realistic hopes of a better tomorrow.
March 18th, 2010 10:53
@Rina Broomberg – I have just read the Gwaai Blog and would like your mother to know that her kindness and Harold’s kindness to Gene and Marie Schultz and to their daughter Rosemary and Tom Hobson over the years is still talked about in our family.
The whole family and friends spent a Christmas there in about 1984 and what a glorious time was had by all – everyone still talks about it.
In 1958, my father Gene Schultz and I drove back from Bulawayo with a wire haired terrier puppy. Sylvia said it could stay in the room with me – no problem. But … the puppy ate a huge hole in the blanket!! I had to go and tell Sylvia in the morning and she just laughed and said “Puppies do that sort of thing” – and was so kind to me.
What a legacy of love, hospitality and kindness your parents have left in so many lives.
I have printed out Harold’s prayer and will learn it and intend to live by it
Our love to you all Rosemary and Tom Hobson
March 19th, 2010 11:29
Dear John @John King -
Dear John
I would love to hear about the history of Halfway House as well as stories and photos you may have for the Wankie Friends & Trivia, a newsletter and data base of names and contact numbers of ex Wankie folk. Please will you email me at franky@up.ac.za. I’d really love to hear from you. Any little information on Halfway House would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards,
Franky (ex Wankie)
March 19th, 2010 11:40
@Twig Wood –
I agree Twig, we had such good times there, wonderful memories.:-)
March 21st, 2010 19:16
So wrong is this true???? l remember stopping there always for a drink on my way to the Falls and picking up some clay pots from the pottery, please tell me this is a hoax,if not then where are headed to as a nation??.Might as well divide that country and kick out all who want to mess things up.
March 22nd, 2010 09:58
How many Black people went in there. Not counting the workers. It was a venue for the white elite at the time. Thank God, anything that reminds us of the colonial and racist past has been destroyed. After all, such a place has no place in the life of an African.
@nelson – Why is it that it is always taken for granted that all white commercial farmers are British? It does your head in. your father-in-law was born in South Africa in 1900. Your mother in law was born in Shurugwe in 1913. Your husband was born in Kadoma in 1936. Your sons were born in Kadoma in 1970. The problem is, a lot of you have dual passports, and if you do not have one, you can get one on the basis of your ancestors. Furthermore, A lot of the White Zimbabweans are only there to enjoy the benefits of a cheap workforce, which they have enjoyed for generations., getting rich off the swaet of the black man.
The swimming pool, thank god its gone. 90% of the Zimbabwean population cannot
March 22nd, 2010 12:33
What wonderful memories of my birthplace, ‘Number 1 Colliery’, when my father worked there, and our breaks at the Gwaai River Hotel. Thanks for the wonderful description, I know about seeing it in innocence and looking back with experience.
Jenith Shannon (nee Simons)
jenithshannon@yahoo.com
March 22nd, 2010 12:56
@Anonymous –
Hope wrote:
“I know full well that had I experienced those days from the perspective of the person I have grown up to become today, I would look at pre-Independence experiences with a very different set of eyes”.
Indeed, it was a venue for the white elite. Our different eyes can see that now. And we see too, that this was a tragedy, but things were as they were, and that there were complexities. Zimbabwe’s history cannot be reduced to a page in some Little Red Book!! Can we not have the simple courage to face our past and to accept it? Is it necessary to destroy the entire country, wreck the economy, break the infrastructure, commit all kinds of genocide and drive away the survivors, merely in order to avoid being “reminded of the colonial and racist past”?
Is that not post traumatic psychosis, an ugly pathology written large across the face of a young nation that has attempted suicide before it could even grow up to take its rightful place in the world? Can we never be allowed to heal, white and black together?
Please, read the article again and think about what it means to “rebuild”. It does not advocate rebuilding the social milieu in which this Hotel flourished, but without the basic human decency, hospitality and generosity (not to mention hard work) of ALL the people who made that hotel what it once was, Zimbabwe can never rise again to be anything other than a site of plunder and ruin.
March 23rd, 2010 22:22
@Doris –
So the British govt should take not a single ounce of blame, in spite of the fact that they reneged on their promises at Lancaster House? I quote you Clare Short’s letter to RM:
I should make it clear that we do not accept that Britain has a special responsibility to meet the costs of land purchase in Zimbabwe. We are a new Government from diverse backgrounds without links to former colonial interests. My own origins are Irish and as you know we were colonised not colonisers.
A link to the full letter is here:
http://maravi.blogspot.com/2007/03/zimbabwe-claire-shorts-letter-nov-5th.html
The letter stipulates conditions for support of land reform, fine. But the quoted paragraph is scandalous in its disregard for Zimbabwean history and sensitivities. Mugabe is not the sole agent of Zimbabwe’s downfall.
March 25th, 2010 16:55
I first visited the Gwaai river hotel in 1970 as a young 14 year old with my parents,on our way to Vic Falls,we spent two glorious nights at the Gwaai hotel there,I also remember the trampoline,and the propieter had to Zonkeys wich were a donkey crossed with a zebra,In 1976 i was based at 4indep company wankie we were called to a contact at the hotel,when a guest was shot dead in the foyer as a group of terrorists had attacked the hote.Then in 2000 I went to Zimbabwe on holiday and I drove back to Vic Falls on the way stopping at millibizi and then doing a detoer up to the Gwaii hotel,it was like time had stood still the hotel then was still very much the same as when I had seen it last in 1976 even the bullet hole in the outside masonary from the attack was still there,I had 4 glorious days there with some of the local hunters comming to the bar at night and swapping stories.Today I was sent this E mail of the Gwaai and my heart was saddened to see how the place had been destroyed in a matter of ten years I couldnt beleave how mugabes thugs could destroy such a beautiful place.
March 26th, 2010 04:00
Senator Obert Gutu had this to say recently about ZANU-PF: “Fearing for its very survival as a political party, ZANU-PF, since the formation of the MDC in 1999, has engaged combat mode.This is a crudely intolerant and morbidly violent mode of political existence that has perfected a scorched earth policy; a policy that ensures that as ZANU-PF faces its inevitable disintegration, the whole nation of Zimbabwe should also collapse with this party. This scorched earth policy is the very anti-thesis of patriotism”.
The destruction of the Gwaai is simply a small part of ZANU-PF’s current scorched earth policy.
Sad though such wanton destruction is, perhaps we can take hope that this will ultimately prove to be part of the process of the ultimate establishment of democracy in Zimbabwe.
As Sen Gutu says: “… the massive victory of the MDC in March 2008 was not an accident. Whilst ZANU-PF believed its own propaganda that its support base was in the rural areas…the MDC won the hearts and minds of the people of Zimbabwe; more so in the rural areas… the majority of the people of Zimbabwe no longer support ZANU-PF…Victory is certain.”
March 26th, 2010 07:18
Those were the days – Rina, are you still called Rinky – I remember I used to play with you all when I lived at Chimwara Ranch and I remember we all went to Coghlan (spelling) junior school as boarders – still have photographs of Louise sitting on a rock at the back of the boarding house of Coghlan. Very sorry to hear about your father – your parents were very special people – if it wasnt for them, Gwaai River would never have been what it was – the best community gathering place for all the locals. My best love to Sylvia.
March 27th, 2010 12:56
What memories! I’m 58 now and can remember Mr & Mrs Bloomberg very well after all these years. We lived in Lupani in the 50′s and my parents would on occassion go up to the hotel and I just loved that place. Mrs Bloomberg would always make a fuss of us kids and we used to swim in the pool and run about the place barefoot all day. My folks used to see all their friends and everyone was so friendly and happy. Then we used to drive home and I would curl under a blanket in the back of the truck. The best years of my life and the best upbringing any child could have ever had. What wonderful memories. So sad it has come to this after politicians fail abysmally to create a better life for all.
March 27th, 2010 22:06
What wonderful memories I have of the Gwaai River Hotel – the oasis on our trip to and from Msuna. the best steak and kidney pies, washed down with a beer! It was sad to see those pictures of the destruction – but no-one can ever do that to our memories! I now live in the USA and will always think of Zim as home and where my heart will always be. always be
March 28th, 2010 13:56
@anne combe –
Anne, I was so sad to hear about Harold’s death and to see the ruins of Gwaai River Hotel. You have brought back long buried childhood memories of when we used to stop there on our way home to Kamativi in the school holidays. Harold and Sylvia were always so welcoming. I have one vivid memory of a Christmas party there when I had my party dress ripped off by a monkey that they had chained to a pole. I had been feeding it chips and when I turned away it jumped onto a ribbon at the back of my dress!
Your father was a good friend of my father and I remember visiting your farm a couple of times. I was at Coghlan with you and we had measles at the same time and went home to recouperate!
I haven’t been back to Kamativi since my father retired in 1979. I prefer to remember it as it was – we were incredibly lucky to have had such a magical childhood. So much water under the bridge since then, but lets set our hopes on a new Zimbabwe being rebuilt from the ashes one day.
April 9th, 2010 16:38
I am one of many BSAP officers that have such wonderful memories of the Gwaai River Hotel and the hospitality of Mr & Mrs Broomberg. I always used to stop in when travelling between Bulawayo and Wankie/Falls. When on Highway Patrol used to stop in regularily for the fantastic hospitality sometimes spending the night. What happened to the paper currency display in the bar. As we grow older the memories grow fonder.
God bless
April 9th, 2010 16:41
@Anonymous – I will ignore this comment with the disdain that it deserves as the writer is to cowardly to even give a name.
April 12th, 2010 23:45
When I saw the photos, I was deeply saddened – even though I only stayed there once and that was as an adult after Mugabe took over.
However, many thanks for your excellent comments and assessment of what is of importance – faith, hope and love will always remain – and no doubt, despair or hatred can ever finally overcome them. The darkest night always has the hope of the day ahead.
April 15th, 2010 16:53
Cry the Beloved Country…
April 16th, 2010 02:00
@Bob Rankin –
Bob, I most definitely agree.
I was in my 20′s when I first visited the Gwaai. Thank you for adding one more memory
April 18th, 2010 20:48
mugabe forced the land grab issue to detract attention from himself and his 5th brigade cronies as he faced International preassure to account for Human Rights attrocities, namely the Matabeleland massacres.Or have you conveniently forgot? Forget about compensation from the Brits-rather explain the Matabeleland massacre
April 19th, 2010 14:52
My sister Pam Hill sent me this link and I was sad to see what has become of such an iconic Rhodesian and Zimbabwean watering hole. I was also sad to hear about Harold. I agree that Harold and Sylvia were special and so was the Gwaai River Hotel.
I remember stooping off at the hotel over all my childhood years and beyond. We moved to live at Kamativi Tin Mine about 1950 and the Bulawayo road was mostly strips and low level bridges. We travelled the 200 miles a number of times a year, having to keep an eye on weather conditions in the rainy season when streams and rivers (especially the Gwaai) could cut us off. We would make fuel and refreshment stops at Kenmuir, Half Way House but especially the Gwaai (which in the early days was Van Niekirk’s). We also usually stopped to buy oranges from the store on Chimwara.
It was Harold and Sylvia that made the Gwaai, with their special brand of hospitality. I too remember the pool, donkeys, the dining room’s punkah wallah and the monkey on the pole! In the 70s I remember also regular visits when I was deputy manager of the Safari Lodge. Harold and Sylvia were like family. My Dad and Harold played an active part in the Lions and Moths groups who met at the hotel. The Gwaai was a staging post too for the convoys and we would be escorted to there from Kamativi before setting off for Bulawayo.
Thanks for the memories. I pray one day Zimbabwe can recover from all the sadness. Most of its peoples are wonderful and do not deserve the leaders who have destroyed God’s country.
@anne combe -
April 22nd, 2010 21:12
@Rina Broomberg – Hi
Harold and Sylvia took care of me and made me feel like a part of their family…This was afetr the ” Hondo” ..I spent many happy and fulfilling days at the ” Gwaai”….When my boss said 3 weeks based at Gwaai …I was happier than a wartpig …Hope all is well
Guy French ( Ollie )
May 17th, 2010 13:00
How sad ! I remember spending balmy evenings talking until well into the night at this once pleasant hotel. I would always use it when travelling to or from Wankie/Vic Falls. My wife accompanied Colin Marson and I on a working trip and spent a night there.
Its destruction is mindless vandalism and has nothing to do with erasing ‘white colonialism’. The new order could, at least, have continued trading there to the benefit of everyone but it seems that they do not possess the gumption.
May 17th, 2010 19:34
Have you no respect for passing of people regardless of race colour or creed. I detect an element of envy. What a pity
May 19th, 2010 11:10
I can’t say that I’ve ever been to Gwaai Hotel. My brother and I did stop for lunch on the way to Vic Falls in 1995 tho I don’t remember where. IF I recall correctly ,the approach to the place was over a low bridge, may even have been a causeway.
Be all that as it may, the comments of most readers are illuminating. I too cannot understand why there has had to be such wanton destruction in Zimbabwe. The colonial era was the mindset at the time which turned out to be wrong. But that doesn’t justify tearing everything down and the “chefs” grabbing all the farms leaving the povos even more impoverished than during the colonial times.
Still when St Peter calls him in, Mr Mugabe will have to answer for it.
June 10th, 2010 22:45
It touched me to read this. I was at the Gwaai River Hotel in 1993. I was with my boyfriend – we hitchhiked from Bulawayo, and were “dumped” in Gwaai. As it was getting dark, we gave up finding a ride all the way to Vic Falls that night, and instead we walked up the small road to the hotel. It felt like stepping in to a different world – what a fantastic experience. I was there for one night of my life, but actually it left such a deep impression. that I later described that special feeling and that special atmosphere in an essay that I called “In my African dream”.
It’s sad to hear how things have gone since then – I often dream of taking my family to Zimbabwe, but I doesn’t seem like the place to go at the moment.
Nevertheless. thank you for rekindling a fond memory.
Jeanette Lyng, Hellerup, denmark.
July 12th, 2010 22:49
My family were also touched by the serenity during our stay in 1996 We stopped for one night and ended up staying for 4 because of the hospitality and almost spiritual effect of the place
shirley